Newsletter 58 del 01 maggio 2019

Dear {{NOME}},

At Identità Golose at the end of March 2019 Chiara Quaglia and Piero Gabrieli unveiled the Almanacco della Pizza which they will present as a complete project early in November at PizzaUp in Vighizzolo d’Este near Padua. It’s a praiseworthy project because it represents a step ahead in the world of pizza. It’s a story of the different moments of the evolution of the entire sector. Too bad there are still so many divisions and the dialogue among different groups is not always easy.

Paolo Marchi

 

PIZZA AND NEW MEMORIES

Back in 2012, in November, in Vighizzolo d’Este during PizzaUp (the technical symposium dedicated to Italian pizza) we lay the foundations of contemporary pizza by writing the PizzaUp manifesto. In the 10th point, Paolo Marchi said with farsightedness: "Italian pizza enhances shapes, dough, baking techniques and toppings that are born from local traditions". From that moment on, the history of pizza took a decisive turn towards higher quality and creativity, favouring the growth of a new generation of pizzaioli livened up by the fire of a new tradition that must be built.

Then, in 2013, again at PizzaUp we presented pizza 180, a small and well risen dough, with fresh ingredients and balanced nutrients: the emblem of a healthy Mediterranean diet. Today this is part of reality, it’s no longer a provocation. We’re on the right track, but there’s still plenty to do and I hope that a sense of team will prevail, especially in the iconic figures who should feel responsible for giving value to the group, on top of themselves.

Piero Gabrieli


Almanacco della Pizza, the first 15 stories

It’s half-book, half collection of stories, through words and images, but not even one photo of a pizza; instead, it shows the faces and hands of the 15 pizzaioli who were interviewed, photographed and filmed during PizzaUp 2018. These are the people who contributed in writing these stories.

This is what makes the Almanacco della Pizza – a part of which is accessible to all, online, or you can buy the deluxe printed version which will be presented during the 2019 edition of PizzaUp®It’s the new project of Molino Quaglia, a preview of which Chiara Quaglia and Pietro Gabrieli presented at the Identità Milano 2019 congress: «It’s a way to report, every two years, on the evolution and the changes taking place in the world of pizza, which in the past few years has stopped being an ordinary product, and is now a product of great quality, though still popular. A leap in quality that resulted, above all, from creating the occasion for pizzaioli and great chefs to share ideas, because cooking techniques, once applied to pizza, have allowed to make better products using fresh ingredients for the toppings».

With this thought, both at the latest PizzaUp® 2018 and at Identità Golose 2019Molino Quaglia fostered the work of pizzaioli and chefs in pairs, so that the latter would convey their knowledge and techniques, enhancing the work of the former.

But there are more projects to come at Molino Quaglia: in the next few months, the Università della Farina will debut too, with a series of courses that will give a better understanding of one of the essential, though too often “hidden”, ingredients of a good pizza...

Luciana Squadrilli


Cera and the miracle of bread and fish

Lionello Cera. All the photos of the speakers are from Brambilla-Serrani

«My father was a fisherman, and he had to use the small fish that nobody at the market wanted». At the 15th edition of Identità Golose, the speech given by Lionello Cera, patron chef at two-starred Antica Osteria Cera in Campagna Lupia (Venice) started with a family flashback: «And my mother, who before that time used to run a small osteria in Vicenza, had the idea of selling cicchetti, small portions of fried fish». In order to build new memories, you necessarily need to start from the ancient ones, which act as a necessary springboard to strengthen the present and jump into the future.

The inclusion of the Venetian chef in Identità di Pane e Pizza, the section of the congress created in collaboration with Petra Molino Quaglia, is soon explained: «For me bread is a crucial element in the kitchen, and it’s always present in my dishes». So his Risotto con "pan e sardee" (that is to say bread and sardines) becomes a summary of bread and memories. It’s a seemingly simple idea, which creates a new memory with a contemporary original taste, but deeply rooted into the past.

It’s a dish full of virtuous technique and emotion. It vibrates in the palate thanks to the aromatic energy of the sardines, which explodes in the slowly cooked Acquerello rice prepared with a sardine and sea fumet and mixed with a concentrated cream of sardines, and in the fun crispiness of the sardines seared in the oven, chopped and then mixed with some oven-toasted bread. «I often use the inside part of the bread to make a neutral sauce that I use to thicken other sauces». The final touch to the work, is given by a bread sauce and a white sauce made with iodine water and garlic.

Davide Visiello


Rodolfi on the stage with Aurora and Gaia (two different types of yeast)

Simone Rodolfi

«Every type yeast gives a different character to the final product, in terms of development, taste, aroma and structure». With these words, Simone Rodolfi, owner with his partner Vita Agnusdei of bakery, pastry-shop and cafè Profumo di Lievito in Brescia, announces the topic of his talk at Identità di Pane e Pizza. With him, there’s Aurora and Gaia, two names given respectively to the solid and the liquid sourdough. The 2017 world bread champion at Sirha in Lyon and at the Siab Bakery Award in Verona in 2010 explained and presented the first bread of the day: «It’s made with stone-milled flour to which I add germinated flour and solid mother yeast, the one commonly used in Italy to make panettone, colomba and pandoro».

The result is a not very airy loaf of bread, with a compact structure and a long life. The second sample is the result of a more complex process: «I make the dough with solid mother yeast to which I add salt and 5 parts of flour. I leave it to rise for 24 hours at 20°C and then I add it as if it were normal yeast». As tasty as the first one, less compact, airier and lighter.

The third sample is a bread made with liquid mother yeast: «The aroma and taste is more delicate, because the liquid yeast doesn’t work as hard; the delicate acid note is due to the fact that, when refreshing the yeast, mixing it with water, the volatile acidity evaporates and therefore is less noticeable when eating the bread».

Davide Visiello


Li Rosi, Cannata and the Wheat of Peace

Giuseppe Li Rosi and Tommaso Cannata

«Every life is born from a seed. The seed is a project. Inside it, there’s the dream of our ancestors. In the dream enclosed in the seed, there’s the entire drama of creation». Giuseppe Li Rosi chooses a lyric approach to present the new memories of the earth that he’s building with the 170 members of Simenza, Compagnia siciliana di sementi contadine.

With him, there’s Tommaso Cannata.The greatest baker in Messina (with a branch in Milan too, since one year and a half ago) shows the dream in which a seed has already been transformed: the loaves of bread made with Miscuglio evolutivo which – together with Tumminia flour«when it’s the real one, when it’s the good one» - is already becoming his favourite type of flour.

Thanks to them, the afternoon at Identità di Pane e Pizza started with the huge emotion that only the powerful and evocative liturgy of broken bread can move through the heart, even more importantly than through its aroma and flavour: the gift of a unique sharing and of an authentic lesson of life.

The first gift is given by Tommaso Cannata who, unexpectedly, doesn’t just give the audience a sample of food to taste, but a handful of mother yeast for them to keep: «I inherited this mother yeast from my father, I’ve preserved it throughout my life and now I’ve handed it to my son. I’m not jealous, but it’s important that you know it’s part of my family. So I ask you to take it home with you only if you believe you’ll pay it the attention it deserves»...

Concetta Bonini

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The southern memories of Boer and Rizzo

Giuseppe Rizzo and Eugenio Boer

Eugenio Boer was born in Liguria to Dutch father and Sicilian mother and it was in Sicily that he started to work in the restaurant industry and stopped there for a few years. Giuseppe Rizzo of Pizzeria dell’Angolo in Vittuone (Milan), instead, comes from a family originally from Campania who moved to Milan in the Sixties. There is every premise to speak about building new memories, of mixing and blending cultures and traditions. Indeed, the two joined forces after Rizzo dined at Bu:r and their new collaboration, they reassure, will be a long one.

The two leavened products presented during Identità di Pane e Pizza, are the result of their personal stories. Whole wheat focaccia with fennel salad is the result of a distant (in time) inspiration: as a kid Boer, as soon as he arrived in Palermo, near the Vucciria market he came across an aroma he knew from childhood. When walking around the stands, he realised it was herrings, a must in the sandwiches his father would make for breakfast, something Sicily shares with northern Europe in terms of food.

The whole wheat focaccia is made with Petra 9 flour, a small portion of Petra Evolutiva and a mix of flax, sunflower and pumpkin seeds («This to remind Eugenio of the northern bread he’d eat as a child»). The high-hydration dough, for which Rizzo used mother yeast, was made from a poolish that matured for 18-22 hours and was kneaded the following day.

Amelia De Francesco


Massimiliano Prete’s Rime di terra

Massimiliano Prete

Originally from Salento, a not too easy debut – and then the turning point thanks to Enrico Crippa’s placet when he showed how his innovative energy was a value – Massimiliano Prete is now fully at home in Piedmont in his two restaurants in Saluzzo and Torino, where in December 2017 he opened Sestogusto.

Ambitious and creative, Massimiliano loves experiments and – quoting and completing the sentence by Mahler that is the leit motiv of the 15th edition of the congress – keeps the fire of tradition alive, so as to light new fire, not to be limited by it. So the pizza he presents is a tribute to Piedmont and its most famous culinary traditions, but with a decisively innovative interpretation. The dough – thick and soft like a cloud, with 83% hydration and double baking – starts from a pre-ferment with hazelnuts and hazelnut paste which replaces the fat component given by oil.

On top, a cream of Jerusalem artichoke and a carpaccio of Fassona marinated with butter, garlic and hazelnuts with salt, sugar, pepper and juniper. To finish this version of his Pizz’otto (a focaccia cut into eight slices, each seasoned separately, one of the seven types of dough available in his restaurants) he adds sarzet (valeriana seasoned with oil and salt, which makes the typical Piedmontese salad), plus raschera cheese and spring black truffle, and pansies to decorate. A story of his local memories which he named Rime di terra, and presented as a preview at the congress before introducing it in the menu in Saluzzo.

Luciana Squadrilli

 


Gennaro Battiloro offers a tasting of memory

Gennaro Battiloro

From Torre del Greco to Querceta, where he opened Battil’Oro, via Los Angeles, London, Milan and much more. Shimmering hair, tattooed arms and a Tuscan accent now, Gennaro Battiloro, "Best Chef Pizzaiolo" according to the Guida Identità Golose 2019, looks at the future but without forgetting the flavours of his childhood, those of the food made by his grandmother Rita and his relatives - cooks, fishermen and pizzaioli. So at the congress his sample of memory – given by the pasta cresciuta with seaweeds that you would once find in Naple’s friggitorie – is in fact a trip “back to the future”: «It’s like a deja-vu, going back to the emotions of the past, so as to guide tradition into the future. Indeed, pizza is a product of the future».

So at the congress he presented Rita, a pizza inspired by those flavours. The soft dough, with a large edge – the result of a long leavening and of a rolling out based on personal sensitivity – but cooked longer than the Neapolitan pizza, so it’s drier and crispier. On top, Gennaro puts a rosy cream of sweet and sour onions from Tropea.

After the baking, he adds a mousse of chickpeas, crispy wafers of rice with seaweeds (the rice is overcooked, blended, dried and fried), and raw scarola, to add freshness and crispiness. He serves this, just like at his restaurant – whosepay off  is "Fuochi+Spiriti+Lieviti" –, with a Golden Mary cocktail prepared by bartender Giuseppe Roglieri with yellow tomatoes from Vesuvius and basil reduction, so as to stress the oro, the gold of the establishment. Which is not just a celebration of his name, but of the «power of the earth, of wheat, and sun».

Luciana Squadrilli


Team work for the four guys at Marghe

Riccardo Raia, Michele Botta, Marco Scovino, Simone Mantuano

You can tell they’re more used to work with their hands on the counter or by the oven, than to stay in front of microphones and cameras. Young, already very focused and determined, Marco Scovino, Michele Botta, Riccardo Raia and Simone Mantuano – the four pizzaioli at Marghe – never stop making pizzas and are not very prone to answer Francesca Barberini’s questions. Perhaps it’s because they’re shy, perhaps it’s because they want to make pizzas that live up to those made by the great masters with whom they are sharing the stage.

What strikes you – on top of the pizzas, which are very good indeed: from Margherita to Primavera, with fiordilatte from Agerola, asparagus and capocollo from black pigs from Caserta – is their harmony while they’re working. Even at Marghe – where there are 5 more pizzaioli helping them – they work in team, covering the different roles in turn and fully sharing the creative process that leads to the birth of new pizzas. But of course each one of them has his personality and a connection with their hometown or region: Campania for Riccardo (who was born in Milan, to a Neapolitan, and pizzaiolo, father, and discovered his passion for pizza in London) and Michele, Calabria – precisely Paola, in the province of Cosenza – for Marco and Simone.

It is also because of this, that the ingredients on the pizzas at Marghe include, for instance, fior di latte and cured meat from Campania, and ‘nduja from Calabria. As well as other products from all around Italy, following the season. They use these to season the dough, which is Neapolitan-style, but with a new take, based on a blend of semi-whole wheat, stone-milled flour and on at least 24 hours of leavening.

Luciana Squadrilli


Franco Pepe, a memory to build

Franco Pepe with his son Stefano

Some stories have unexpected developments, though they are the result of intense and constant work. It’s the case of Franco Pepe, from the slight bewilderment of the first edition of Identità di Pizza, in 2011, to the – always sincere, but more aware – emotions of this year, with all that happened in between.

At the time, he arrived on stage with his wood kitchen chest. Franco had been working for years as pizzaiolo in the family restaurant in Caiazzo and Pepe in Grani was still in an embryo stage. Today, he’s acknowledged as one of the best pizzaioli in the world and has built a project that goes beyond pizza, or rather he investigates every aspect of pizza – from nutrients to every feature of the hospitality offered in the pizzeria – in a constantly evolving research.

On the stage of the 15th edition of the congress, Franco Pepe brings – in words and with a concrete sample – an idea that he wants to share with the audience, so that perhaps someday it can become a “standard”, a new shared memory, something that has already happened to his Margherita Sbagliata which has been reinterpreted by pizzaioli all around the world.

He continues to research a “functional pizza”, with a balance between carbohydrates, proteins and lipids (respectively 55-60%, 15-18% and 25-30%). It follows the guidelines given by the Mediterranean Diet, with the support of nutritionist Michelina Petrazzuoli. Hence Pepe presents – for those who are interested, or need it – a concept of Pizza Mediterranea that erases the status of “exception to the rules” that one often associates to a dish that is too good to be healthy.

Luciana Squadrilli

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