Identità Golose
Via dei Chiavari, 34, 00186 Roma
Telefono: 0039.06.6864045/6875287
ROBERTA CORRADIN
For the gourmets of the city it marked a new era, a sort of gastronomical jubilee: the move of the Roscioli family from the bakery located in Via dei Chiavari to the grocery store with restaurant in the nearby Via dei Giubbonari brought a gust of high and steady quality in the daily routine of the Capitoline restaurant management.
The two brothers Alessandro and Pierluigi Roscioli, confident of the name of their bakery, where white and red pizzas are served to the table as well as taralli and bread from Lariano in the versions with nuts and with olives, showed to be good also offering something else to be eaten with bread: from early in the morning to late at night the counter is crowded with what the guide critics define “a wide selection of cheeses and dressed pork products”.
They go from Sienese saddleback pork to extra virgin olive oil by Pierangelini, sea dressed products and sauces for pasta by Cedroni, from refined cheeses by Guffanti to salts (in plural, c’est la mode), to the wide selection of bottles up to high quality chocolate (three names for all: Amedei, Domori, Gobino).
Then there are the tables, which take origin from the idea to seat and taste the selection of cheeses and charcuterie while drinking a glass of wine, and a cooking which isn’t pretentious nor strictly Roman. In the meantime, cooking has developed (also the room used as kitchen was widened); the menu structure remains that of the very beginning, with entrées made of buffalo’s mozzarella millefeuille, the tartare of selected meats cut with the knife, some extra dishes of the day which are showed by the waiter (mainly fish , proposed raw) and first courses which are not regional.
However, little by little tradition gained its place, may be also because of the numerous customers not coming from Rome: this is why today, among the dishes than can’t be missed at Roscioli, we find bucatini with ewe’s milk cheese and pepper (strengthened by a mix of Sechuan, Sarawak and Malaysian peppers), traditional meatballs, spaghetti all’amatriciana (with bacon-tomato sauce) and alla carbonara (mixed with beaten eggs and diced fried bacon).
Everything marked by a constant quality even as regards service, a bit serious after the abandonment of two young co-operators whom the habitué are still missing and which, despite the “fine food” religion (as mentioned in its web site), succeeds to never impose a selection of cheeses as a monstrance. So be Roscioli.
